Jason with Encinitas Surf Lessons and Surfing for Empowerment here…
Lets face it, Surfing is one of the most popular board sports ever invented. There are over 20 million surfers in the world, and the number is growing fast! The fact is surfers only ride a wave for an average time of 6 seconds, and the waves of their lives only arrive from time to time. In this sport, it’s rare to meet someone who quit surfing because he or she didn’t enjoy the feeling of walking on water despite onshore surfing days, one foot waves, cold water and choppy waters.
So why is surfing so addictive? Is it any different from other sports, such as soccer, running, swimming, or tennis?
Each surfer will have his or her own list of reasons they are drawn so irresistibly to the sport, but after working with thousands of individuals over the years doing regular lessons or Surfing for Empowerment sessions, here are my 9 reasons very good reasons why surfing is so addictive:
- Riding a wave is a breathless direct experience of what it feels like to be in the “flow” state, a place where time stops and we can be “in the zone” beyond space and time. This can be a spiritual experience for many individuals and like a feeling of “Oneness”. And the first wave ridden is always unforgettable! Its really unique and unlike any other feeling out there.
- Oceans have a positive impact on human health. Sun and saltwater together make a great combo and this provides a “clearing” energy just like an Epsom salt bath would do. Negative ions in sea water accelerate our ability to absorb oxygen. This makes one feel more alive and relaxed. And the expansiveness of the ocean can clear our busy minds indeed. Jump in the ocean when you have a hangover and see the amazing effects!
- Every wave can have a different feeling and each ridden wave can be a personal story. Waiting for what different types of waves will be ridden in any given session can connect us to our own sense of curiosity, hope, and anticipation.
- There are waves in every corner of the world. Thats why surfing goes well with travel and exploration of other places and countries. It adds to our sense of adventure. This can also enhance the drive to explore and discover new surf spots that intensifies with time.
- As one progresses, they are usually compelled to surf better each day. This gets us in touch with our own innate internal drive to evolve and grow.
- There’s a deep sense of connection with water for all humans. We were in our mothers womb of water for 9 months. And we are actually made of over 75% water. This is fact. So being in the ocean connects us back to what we are made of and where we came from.
- Surfing is a unique way of self-expression, creativity, and display of character. You can choose when you want to turn, come off the top, slow down, or tuck in the barrel on any wave. Its you and nature co-creating together. Its like making your own art with lines on a surfboard. And there is never any “right” or “better” way to ride. Just your way.
- The Ocean and waves can enable us to become more present, out of our heads, and anchored in ourselves. In the Ocean there is always another wave coming and the currents/waves are always moving and changing. If one isnt present and aware they might get smashed by the next wave coming. And this constantly changing nature can enable us to connect to the contrast of our own internal part which remains constant and never changes. A beautiful anchor indeeed!
- Being in the ocean allows us to be a part of something larger than us and surrender to it. I believe every human has an innate part that knows we are deeply connected to nature or that actually we ARE nature. Allowing waves to ride us and surrender to them in the moment can connect us to this feeling of oneness. Most of us live our day to day lives constantly “doing” and going from one thing to the next. The state I describe here is the opposite. It is a state of “beingness” or what many describe as “coming back home”. Its such a unique feeling that some say only surfers get to experience, hence the phrase “Only Surfers Know the Feeling” became so popular!
Thank you for reading! If you feel compelled to have a discussion with me about any of my sentiments or inquire about surf lessons or my Surfing for Empowerment sessions dont hesitate to reach out direct to me. I look forward to our Co-creation together!
760 846 6894